San Diego is having an Italian moment. Still, despite having a “Little Italy” and a Gaslamp District once silly with Italian joints, local Italian food offerings over the past several decades have been disappointing.  And while some recent high-profile Italian openings have promised change, it’s an unheralded one that might just steal the show: Caffè San Luca (690 University Ave.) in Hillcrest.

Until about a year ago, Caffè’s owners—Alice (pronounced “Al-ee-che”) Olivetti and her husband Stefano Revaglia—lived in Bologna, Italy. They moved to these shores as partners with Luciano Cibelli in version 2.0 of the Red Door Restaurant. In February, they ventured out on their own.