Rockridge’s Market Hall will never be the same. Oliveto, the iconic Oakland restaurant that carved a path for Cal-Italian cuisine within the farm-to-table movement, is shuttering at the end of 2021 after a 35-year run. “We’re tired,” co-owner Bob Klein told The Mercury News Thursday. “Running a restaurant these days is really difficult. The pandemic was really difficult. It’s time to retire.”

For four decades, the Kleins — wife and celebrated cookbook author Maggie Blythe Klein co-founded Oliveto — worked with world-renowned chefs including Paul Canales, Michael Tusk and Paul Bertolli to build menus, memorable meals and special events that highlighted Northern California famers and purveyors from Paul Muller of Full Belly Farm to Matt Magruder of Magruder Ranch and Tom Worthington of Monterey Fish Market.