Frank Martusciello has quietly reopened his Italian bakery after more than a three-year absence. Casa Saratoga − the successor to Martusciello's Bakery − is currently a one-man operation at 2280 Lyell Ave. in Gates. Martusciello waits on customers while also baking the breads, the pastries, the calzones and the pizzas.

Theoretically, the setup is doable. Martusciello, 70, started baking in his parents' bakery on Saratoga Avenue at age 16. He's used to multitasking, and because he's not accepting wholesale orders, he can keep up with the volumes.