Off Sicily’s north coast we found an island of raw scenic beauty with dramatic volcanic cliffs plunging into the sea, sleepy villages amidst verdant mountains, colourful fishing boats on pebbly beaches, hills covered in wild capers, and vines heavy with grapes for sweet Malvasia wine.

Salina, Italy is one of the Aeolian islands, a cluster of seven volcanic islands off Sicily. The biggest island Lipari is the most popular, but we chose Salina, a quieter, greener base, its mountains vibrant as the only island with a natural water source. In mid-September the summer crowds had left and it felt like we had the island to ourselves.