Pizzeria Roberti keeps it old-school Italian with New York-style pizza, meatballs the size of tennis balls and a red sauce your Italian grandmother would approve of, all in a small neighborhood joint in east Orlando.

What I would try a second time: Roughly the circumference of a large orange, Pizzeria Roberti’s rice ball ($5) was a sizable appetizer. The crisp outer shell broke open into a velvety mixture of rice and fontina cheese with a dot of meat in the middle.