The facade of Il Triangolo, a wedge of a restaurant in north-central Queens at the sharply angled intersection of Corona Avenue and Junction Boulevard, isn’t much broader than the door. But the entryway opens to a space that widens in both directions, like arms extended for a hug. This is a gesture not atypical for the owner, Mario Gigliotti, who usually greets guests, “Welcome to my home.”

An immigrant from Calabria, Italy, who moved to Corona with his family when he was 8, Mr. Gigliotti has a serious smile and is prone to wearing dark suits. His parents were factory workers, but his mother also liked to cook Italian delicacies and his father had a knack for real estate, purchasing and refurbishing properties around the neighborhood, including the triangular-shaped structure at 96-01 Corona Avenue.