About 85 years ago, Irene DeBenedittis’s Italian grandparents opened Leo’s Latticini, an iconic deli in Corona, Queens. “Corona was, at that time, country, and it was farms. It was not like it is today,” Irene said. Today, Irene co-owns the shop with her sisters Marie and Carmela. They live upstairs, just above the deli and the recently added bakery, Mama’s Backyard Café.

“My sister Marie is the cook, and she does something different every day,” Irene said. “We’re up to fifth-generation. So we don’t know how things are going to be going in the future. But as for now, we’re still here, and we’re doing the best we can.” Irene prepares and serves sandwiches over the same countertop that her grandmother used. She makes fresh mozzarella with the same time-tested family recipe.