Gelso means mulberry in Italian, hence the name of this newcomer to a high-profile corner of Little Italy, the intersection of Grand and Mulberry. The Italian menu by Cassidy Hallman, who worked at Bouley and Momofuku, hews to the modern Italian canon, and the chef says he depends on the best ingredients, even milling his own flour, for his pastas, pizzas, antipasti and main courses.

Akhtar Nawab is the consultant. The space is simply decorated, with bare tables, brick walls, industrial lighting and a big bar. When the weather warms, there will be a roof garden and a lunchtime window on Mulberry Street for Italian sandwiches: 186 Grand Street (Mulberry Street), 212-226-1600, gelsoandgrand.com.

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Source: http://www.nytimes.com/