For decades, people in search of the best food in Rome have found their way into the arms of the Roscioli family. Atop a network of wine cellars between the ancient Jewish quarter and the Campo de’ Fiori flower market, descendants of Marco and Franco Roscioli run four businesses, each outstanding in its field: a bread bakery, a pastry shop, a wine bar and a salumeria moonlighting as a restaurant that has become one of most sought-after tables in the city.

Twice a day, the staff of Salumeria Roscioli sets up the tables that transform the deli into an informal but ambitious restaurant. There, they serve dishes based on an enormous pantry that includes semi-dried cherry tomatoes from Campania, culatello from Emilia-Romagna and fig-walnut bread made in the 200-year-old oven at their bakery around the corner, L’Antico Forno Roscioli.