A decade ago, Italian farmhouse cooking captured the American food porn imagination like, well, porn.

Golden-hued images of impeccably renovated Tuscan farmhouses were the Food & Wine set's wet dream. The vineyards tumbling beyond the kitchen windows. The granite center islands with centerpieces brimming with just-picked lemons. The wine.

No matter that you had to be a bajillionaire to occupy one of these. Or that renovations could take a decade. Or that original Italian farmhouses typically have no electricity or plumbing. We wanted that villa, dammit!

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