Sometimes even the most creative chefs need a side project. Take, for example, Bertrand Chemel, whose work at 2941 in Falls Church made it my No. 1 restaurant this year. And we food critics can’t live on fine dining alone. Sometimes, we all just want a pizza. That’s why this weekend, a visit to Pizzeria Orso, also in Falls Church, was a match made in VPN (Vera Pizza Napoletana) heaven.

The pizzeria is the 2941 team’s place to let loose with Italian comfort food, albeit beneath blown-glass chandeliers that bring to mind the artsy appeal of their marquee restaurant. Menu options include octopus with house gnocchi and a filet mignon sandwich, but I was at Pizzeria Orso to sample the pies.