The five-course menu at Mina Test Kitchen kicks off with a bang: a pair of golden zeppole topped with caramelized onions, potato mozzarella fonduta and a dollop of glistening caviar. Two decadent bites of crunchy, sweet, creamy and briny—it’s the kind of dish that makes you groan, but if you swing by the unmarked San Francisco restaurant next month or even next week, it won’t be on the menu.

Things change fast inside Test Kitchen: a new amuse every week, a fresh menu every month, an entirely different culinary concept every quarter. As its name suggests, the eatery is a perpetual work-in-progress, a restaurant laboratory where Michael Mina and Co. workshop ideas and where guests flock to consume lavish meals at mid-range prices.