There’s a new pasta sheriff in town and his name is Michael White. At Roosevelt Field’s Osteria Morini, the acclaimed chef is putting out tagliatelle, cappelletti and spaghetti that are worthy of the four Michelin stars his 18 restaurants have earned worldwide.

White, whose Manhattan restaurants include Marea and Ai Fiori, may be the face of the empire, but it's chef di cucina Andrew Minitelli whose Long Island kitchen is already a well-oiled machine at the two-month mark. Service, I must state up front, needs more oil. On one of my visits, a series of personable hosts and servers seemed to feel no urgency about taking orders, bringing bread, offering grated cheese or figuring out how to arrange plates on our tiny table for four.