Even with the abundant lineup of Italian American restaurants on the Buffalo landscape, the places keep coming. Consider it a testament to the deep and profound love we have of Italianate cuisine across the spectrum, from spaghetti and meatballs to elaborate housemade pasta and shaved truffles.

When Daniela opened on Forest Avenue, and I got my first glimpse of its menu – pizza, pasta, salads – I emitted a small, sad sigh, like the last puff from a cooling kettle. How can the place stand out from the crowd?