Tucked between Rome and Naples, this beautiful, under-the-radar coastline has deep ties to The Odyssey and is a quieter, more authentic alternative to Italy's overtouristed seasides. From Terracina, the Italian beach town where my family is from, you can see a mountain promontory that seems to rise from the sea. It is squat and jagged. My father has always said it looks like a witch's profile as she floats on the waves.
It's visible from various points throughout the coastline, a roughly 43-mile (70km) stretch that hugs the Tyrrhenian Sea and runs between Rome and Naples, threading through several seaside towns. We can see it from mountaintops or from the beach. Each evening, it glows in stark relief against the sunset, no two ever alike.
