There are some foods that somehow go beyond just being food. They become the embodiment of a culture. One humble luncheon meat from Italy has found its way from ethnic obscurity to become symbolic of Italian-American culture.
I speak of capocollo. If that doesn’t ring a bell, perhaps the word gabagool does, especially on the Eastern seaboard of the United States. From its frequent mention in gangster movies and television shows to your local Italian deli, we seem to live in the age of gabagool. It’s not simply a piece of pork; it’s a symbol of Italian cuisine and life well worth exploring.
