Traditional stuffed and baked Italian-American jumbo shells are an easy sell. Filled with ricotta, topped with red sauce and cheese, and baked until bubbly, they’re easier to make than lasagna and just as satisfying. But for a recent dinner party, I wanted something a bit lighter: still stuffed shells, just more summery. So I came up with a version that dispenses with the tomato sauce in favor of a lighter pesto. (Though if you miss that pop of red with your pasta, some sliced ripe tomatoes on the side would be more than welcome, as would a salad of dressed arugula or other greens.)

It’s simply a matter of spooning the herbed ricotta mixture into giant pasta shells that have been cooked and cooled. A one-pound box of shells contains about 36 to 40 shells, but the work goes quickly. Just make sure to get the good ricotta. The better your ricotta, the better the result.