A large, black and white portrait of Nonna Bianca standing with her family greets guests in the entryway of this historic Modenese restaurant Trattoria Bianca. Sporting a white apron and pleasant demeanor, she showcases some of the territory’s classic specialties: a flask of Lambrusco, a leg of prosciutto crudo, and whole hens displayed neatly on the table, where a dark-haired little boy sits.

His name is Giuseppe (Beppe) Tartarini — her grandson and third-generation proprietor. Family traditions stand front and center at the restaurant, as evidenced by the dining room’s unchanged appearance. Tartarini’s tattoos and polite disposition add energy that enchants the varied, faithful clientele.