It was early morning on the footpath to Corniglia, and half an hour in, I’d seen more farmers than hikers. Three of them tended to their cliffside vines as I passed by. One was spraying his leaves; another was clearing the scrub around his tiny vineyard; the third rode a toy-size train, called a trenino, on a rail up the steeply terraced cliffside. 

For more than 20 years, Cinque Terre has been one of Italy’s most popular places to visit. Along a 10-mile stretch running north up the Ligurian coastline, five villages — Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso — are wedged between cliffs and sea, their pastel-colored houses stacked up the slopes. The impossible prettiness of it all draws travelers from across the globe.