by Florence Fabricant

It doesn't get more artisanal than this: In the tiny village of Anversa in the Abruzzo region of Italy, the Marcelli family has made cheese for about 500 years. "Many of the people in the village are our relatives," said Christina Marcelli, a member of a younger generation who is involved in the family's import business in New Jersey.

The cheeses are mostly intriguing pecorinos and ricottas. High on my list are the herbaceous ricotta passita, the grassy pecorino di Parco, the delicate pecorino scorza nera covered in ash, and especially the lush, satiny pecorino Gregoriano: Marcelli Formaggi, $35.80 to $52.80 a pound at Eataly, 200 Fifth Avenue (West 23rd Street), 212-229-2560 for telephone orders, marcelliformaggi.com.

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Source: http://www.nytimes.com/