Unless you’ve been living under a rock, you know that today is the holiday formerly known as Columbus Day, in recognition of the Genoese explorer’s landing in America. With the growing intolerance of monuments and holidays that celebrate the legacies of colonists, oppressors and other bullies, there’s a solid movement afoot to rename this October holiday Indigenous Peoples’ Day.

But historically, it’s been a day for Italian-Americans to celebrate their heritage, with a nod to the Italian-born sailor. This month, I’ll toast the country—also my homeland—by raising a glass to Italian wines and, in a sort of reverse commute to that of Columbus, explore a few Italian wine regions. Like America once was, some are off the beaten path. First up: Campania.