The town of Bellagio basks in the spotlight as Lake Como’s crown jewel, but there’s a quieter haven across the lake, away from the masses, and it’s the perfect base to explore the extraordinary towns that lap Italy’s third-largest lake.

Welcome to Lenno. A charming hamlet with a population of about 1800 some 20km northeast of Como, the closest train station. From Como, take a 30-minute fast hydrofoil or a scenic 90-minute ferry to arrive lakeside. To travel on land, take a 30-minute bus towards Menaggio or, for the strong-hearted, rent a car and brace for a white-knuckled drive along extremely narrow roads.