Florence: June 11th, 2023. The city center is buzzing, and we join the migration of locals heading towards Piazza Santa Croce. The square is closed off, giving us the opportunity to circle it through side streets and alleyways. Florentines, and a few beer-guzzling Brits, wait dressed in either red, Rossi, or green, Verdi, signifying their allegiances to the teams playing in the upcoming Calcio Storico semi-final.

Many wear face paint and ripped t-shirts–there are even a few who are shirtless–a stark contrast to Florentines’ usual reserved elegance. We make our way to the bleachers, on the Verdi side, directly facing the neo-Gothic facade of Santa Croce, which looms over the piazza–these days, a 5,000 m2 sand arena called the sabbione–and the Rossi bleachers.