There’s nothing I don’t love about Italian food—let’s just get that out of the way. But I think, whether it’s bowls of handmade pasta or pistachio-dipped cannoli, what most people really fall for about Italy is the country’s signature effortless and communal way of cooking, serving, and eating. Cooks in Italy seem to be born knowing the secrets to pulling off an impressive and bountiful spread of plates and platters, without formality or fussiness but with ease and elegance.

My favorite part of the feasting is a moment in the meal I rarely hear anyone talk about—the point when the first delicious platters hit the table, and the flush from the wine is just beginning to hit our cheeks. It’s the antipasti course, which in Italy is a collection of abundant, seasonal platters for grazing on before the rest of the courses begin. But at home I like to focus on this moment, stretching the dishes to last the whole meal. This is the subject of my new book, Piatti: Plates and Platters for Sharing, Inspired by Italy.