If you’re familiar already with the formidable work that chef Matt Pilato is doing at LAMP Pizzeria, a neighborhood parlor nestled among the scenic desert peaks and million-dollar homes of far-north Scottsdale, the answer might be: pretty damn far.

If you’ve never heard of LAMP Pizzeria, though, and you don’t already spend your free time navigating the wide, smooth roads of north Scottsdale, a trip to LAMP Café might seem like kind of a hard sell. The cafe is about a 40-minute drive from downtown Phoenix, accessible mostly to diners with dependable transportation and a mild sense of determination. It’s a highly appealing and drive-worthy spot, though, especially if you have a strong predisposition toward things like obsessively honed, fresh-made bread and high-quality Italian salumi.