The dining out public's appetite for Italian seems to remain predictably consistent. No sooner than one such eatery closes, another opens to take its place. That's certainly a story line for Compari's Ristorante, which debuted late last year in the spot once home to Salvatore's.

Housed in a Boston Road location that's had a long history of restaurant occupancy, Compari's occupies remodeled quarters whose minimalist, casual ambiance isn't typical of Italian restaurant design. Tables, banquettes, and pub height seating options are available; a large rectangular bar dominates occupies about half the floor space.