The menu never changes at the Italian Express Pizzeria, an agreeable little place on the corner of Sumner and Cottage streets in East Boston. “That’s because it works,” says co-owner Jim Iannuzzi, proudly, and a little defiantly. “Everything is made fresh to order, and we have something for everybody. So, no, we won’t ever change the menu.”

Why should they? From newly arrived yuppies to long-settled townies, folks line up for such delicacies as the frutti di mare and haddock margarita, both of which have been featured on The Food Network. Here’s something else that will never change at the Italian Express Pizzeria: the two framed World War I memorials, one issued by the United States, the other by France, that are displayed on the wall, each under its own lamp.