The trick to the Amalfi coast, says a friend who knows about these things, is to be in or on the water as much as possible. Of course the towns — Positano, Praiano, Ravello, Vietri and Amalfi itself — are lovely, but for much of the year their narrow streets are too rammed to allow for any proper appreciation of their beauty.
Much better to gaze on them from afar. Then there’s the road that links them, that winding ribbon of fear that hangs off the cliff edge, with scooters beep-beeping past taxis and bus drivers throwing enormous coaches round terrifying bends. The whole thing can be quite unrelaxing.
