It took a pandemic to make me appreciate Aldo’s Ristorante Italiano. Last year, when restaurant dining rooms reopened at 25 percent capacity May 1 after more than 40 days gone dark, I posted up at a corner table at Aldo’s to chronicle the reawakening.
I saw worry lines framing tired eyes peering over surgical masks. I saw waiters and customers in an awkward dance of social distancing. I saw owner Aldo Ghaffari, calm and charismatic, holding down the center like he has since Aldo’s opened in 1985. And I experienced food I could recommend with no pandemic caveats.
