Laura Maioglio, the owner and curator of Barbetta, one of New York’s most legendary restaurants, died January 17. And, according to its website, it, too, will pass from history at the end of February.
Regal in bearing and elegant in dress, Maioglio was among the last of the doyennes of Italian cuisine, along with Luisa Leone of Mamma Leone’s, Sylvia Woods of Sylvia’s, Edna Lewis of Café Nicholson and Elaine Kauffman of Elaine’s, whose Piemontese roots transcended the all-too-familiar clichés of Italian-American menus of the post-war era.
