Few cities require advance intel quite like sun-scorched Napoli. With contradictions – and guts – in spades, this explosive southern Italian città doesn’t mess about. Neighborhoods vary wildly in history, vibe and noise levels, and it’s worth planning your stay in advance.

Stumble into the ‘wrong’ neighborhood and you could well find yourself eyeballing the macabre work of 5th-century schiattamorti (‘corpse squashers’) in place of a Caravaggio masterpiece, or the famously sublime sea view that unfolds from Naples’ leafier hillside ‘hoods.