Celebrity chef Scott Conant has said his mission for his restaurant at Red Rock Resort revolves around conviviality, “nothing pretentious at all … a place where they can feel comfortable three times a week.” At Masso Osteria, he has succeeded to a resounding degree, his updated-Italian style conveying a freshness and simplicity, with traditions not so much falling as being carefully re-routed.

That comes through in many ways, but most strikingly in the food. A lamb shank ($29), reminiscent of veal osso buco, came on a bed of pea-sized Sardinian couscous, the name more intuitive than fregola. The ample shanks had been braised long and gently, the meat mellow and ultra-tender . Balance was in the form of a big pile of lightly wilted arugula contributing its peppery austerity.