On a Saturday afternoon in late January, a woman browsing the prepared foods section at Nonna Maria’s Italian Deli & Market stops when she spots a bag of Pastosa Ravioli. Her eyes fill with tears. “I usually special-order this from Brooklyn!” she tells owner Enza Pilla as she grabs three bags from the refrigerator. “This is what my nonna used to make us at home.”

It’s barely noon, and the line at the counter is already 12 people deep. Small children point to the glass dessert case beside the register and beg their parents for black-and-white cookies. Some customers are here for a bagel and a coffee; others are picking up a tray of lasagna or baked ziti to bring home for dinner.