Describing La Devozione as an establishment where the little things matter is both very true but not nearly praise enough for how every detail—from the décor to the packaging, from the quality of the pasta and the icy coldness of the cocktails—has been carefully looked after, calibrated, tested and made part of a whole concept that begins up front with an Italian market and moves to a counter space for tasting meals and the nook-like A Tavola trattoria, as casually comfortable as it is happily colorful.

Located in the warren of Chelsea Market, La Devozione was opened last fall by Giuseppe Di Martino, third-generation Neapolitan owner of Pastificio Di Martino (founded in 1912), whose devotion to pasta seems like a religious crusade, marshaling more than 120 pasta shapes to be purchased, taken home as a dish or enjoyed at the tables.