Jim "Otto" Ottolini balks at the concept of inspiration, at least in the traditional way of understanding it as a spark that ignites an action. He sees it as the opposite: That you begin with a first step, then see if it catches you in a way that makes you want to go further.

That's how he describes his entry into the world of beer — a career in which he has risen from bussing tables at the Schlafly Tap Room to become one of the most respected brewers in the industry.