Objectively, it may seem a little odd that a 200-year-old scarlet Italian liqueur that’s more bitter than sweet would become a staple in mainstream America. And yet, Campari, the best-known of the aperitivo bitters or “red bitters” category, has become a must-have among bartenders, with savvy marketing a through line to the brand’s success.

Some have even built entire bar concepts around the Negroni, such as Knoxville, Tennessee’s Brother Wolf, which opened in July 2021 with eight variations on the menu, plus other aperitivo cocktails.