First impressions of three new Italian restaurants.

Nicoletta Italian Kitchen

When an out-of-town restaurateur pays homage to DC with a token half-smoke or crabcake, it’s usually a red flag—like wearing a band’s T-shirt to their own concert (“We belong!”). Cue the unfortunate Mambo pizza at New York restaurateur Michael White’s newest local venture. (He’s also behind Osteria Morini in Navy Yard.)

The pie, bogged down with bready chicken and sweet sauce, is an anomaly: Pizza is actually one of the best things here—if you stick to the classics. The crusts are flavorful enough to boost a simple cheese pizza, while their medium thickness—an ode to White’s native Wisconsin—can support toppings like the thick-cut pepperoni and fennel sausage.