"Volcanic wine. What the he*l is that?" Late in March, wine writer John Szabo, MS — author of Volcanic Wines: Salt, Grit and Power which won a 2016 André Simon Food and Drink Book Award — was in Manhattan to host his 1st Annual International Volcanic Wines Conference and, on his way up to give the morning's welcome presentation, sharing an elevator with a puzzled man heading somewhere else.
"Humanity since the dawn of time has been drawn to volcanoes," Szabo writes in his dedicated book. "It's not for the thrill of putting one's life in peril but rather the magical things that happen around them." We've been just as drawn to the wine that comes of the soils by them. I'd say that those Szabo calls volcanic converge by way of taste, a push-me-pull-me game of density and uplift.
