Sicily is hot. And not just in the summertime. The delights of this Italianisland long occluded by affiliation with the Mafia, have attracted renewed attention with its ancient sights, diverse landscapes and gorgeous hotels. But this land mass at the crossroads of ancient seafaring civilizations like the Greeks, Phoenicians, Romans and Arabs, best expresses the indelible marks of peoples and time through food and wine.

From the volcanic vineyards of Mount Etna and the market stalls of Ortigia to the homegrown wines and caper farms on Salina, this ultimate itinerary skirts the east coast along paths both well-trodden and seldom seen.