Far from the cacophony of day trippers, busy cafés, and shops selling everything-lemon lies an almost forgotten piece of Amalfi’s rich and fascinating history. A steady climb from sea level along Via San Lorenzo leads past Amalfi’s stunning Duomo, colorful pastel shop fronts, and numerous side alleys that entice the curious. The ascent levels off and culminates in what appears to be a quiet residential area along Via delle Cartiere – the “paper mill street.” 

If the street name isn’t clue enough, a simple sign on a vine-laced building stating Museo della Carta (Paper Museum) makes apparent the tranquil quartiere’s (neighborhood’s) history. Waiting behind the humble wooden door is an immersion into the world of artisan papermaking, little changed from its beginnings centuries ago.