Naples is known for its delectable street food, from iconic pizza al portafoglio (wood-fired Neapolitan pizza folded twice into a handy triangle) to picturesque o’ cuoppo (a paper cone filled with crisp fried fish and seafood), made and served expressly for the purpose of eating on the go with minimal muss and fuss.

You may be surprised to learn, however, that one of the most historic street foods in this bustling port city is possibly one of the mussiest and fussiest of all dishes, and was once so ubiquitous along the working-class quarters of the historic center that it earned Neapolitans a nickname that stuck for over a century: i mangiamaccheroni.