Last August, long before the coronavirus pandemic descended across Italy, I set off on a hike following the Alta Via 1, a long-distance footpath that traverses the Dolomites from north to south.

A monumental mountain range in northeastern Italy, the Dolomites — a World Heritage Site since 2009 — are home to some of the world’s most majestic scenery: colossal vertical limestone walls, gloriously green valleys. There are several Alta Via routes, but the AV1, with fewer exposed sections, is ideal for less experienced hikers.