Here I am sitting at a table with complete strangers I only met five minutes ago while looking out of the window of my B&B. They gestured for me to join their little dinner party and are now feeding me beautiful food and wine accompanied by laughter and good music. This makes it click that something amazing is about to happen.

It’s the Saturday evening before the Festival of the Mysteries, the most important event of the year in Campobasso, and the capital of Molise is buzzing with excitement and anticipation.