To judge from the plate, Italy is taking over Utah. Every time a restaurant closes, an Italian restaurant takes its place. Yes, I’m exaggerating. Yes, you’ve likely read my complaints about this before. But imagine how dismal it feels, after 35 years of extolling and promoting creative regional cuisine, to be faced with so few new choices: a fast-casual restaurant, an Italian restaurant or a combination of the two.

Food should be satisfying. Food should be comforting. Food should never be boring. Authentic Italian cuisine isn’t. But by the time Italian dishes reach Utah kitchens, they have usually been altered to suit the middle of bell curve’s palate and we end up with overcooked lasagne and over-cheesed pasta.