The Astros were about to play Game 6 of their American League Championship Series against the Yankees when I paid my first visit to Potente. The luxury Italian restaurant, a stately pleasure dome decreed by Astros owner Jim Crane, sits right across the street from Minute Maid Park, and the place was packed.

Make that beyond packed. As my friends and I strolled past the attached bar, we saw prominent publicist Dancie Ware squished against the window, waving a "come in" gesture. Inside the dining room, its sober black-and-white shades exploded with orange Astros jerseys and ball caps. People were wearing shorts and running shoes and fizzing with enthusiasm. I had never seen such a casually dressed or excitable crowd inside such an expensive restaurant.