It’s a wintery night in Marine Park. The wind off Jamaica Bay rattles street signs and shakes the treetops of this low-slung neighborhood. But Mother Nature, even in a brutal mood, is no match for the fortress of stone, cleaved on the corner of Nostrand Avenue and Avenue R, where Italian cuisine and conviviality have reigned since 1964 at Michael’s of Brooklyn.

The spacious interior, aglow in chandelier light, features the old world charm of wood panels and white tablecloths. The waiters wear suits; the staff are in uniform. The vibe is that of a celebration, with laughter and camaraderie accompanying the live piano music, though romance is also in the air.