Fairfax adds a new dinnertime player tonight, with Gesso set to debut in the former Pitfire Pizza space just above Melrose. The restaurant is still operated under Paul Hibler’s American Gonzo Food Corporation label, but offers a starkly different experience than before.

With said new experience comes a lot of changes to the decor of the place, too. Instead of simply ordering up at the sunny front counter and taking a seat down below, guests will now be transported through a long, inviting tunnel wrapped in warehouse-style windows and on into the tall dining room. A former patio wall has been pushed out to the sidewalk to add more square footage inside, where all the ironwork and artwork stands.