I once attended a seminar where legendary Italian wine writer Victor Hazan confidently announced, “The color of wine is red!” While Italy is best known for its reds, there are numerous distinctive whites, primarily from indigenous grape varieties.

Think you know Pinot Grigio? You don’t know Pinot Grigio until you’ve tried Italian Pinot Grigio. If you are used to American Pinot Grigio, recalibrate your expectations. Particularly from Alto Adige in the northeast with wines such as the 2019 Kaltern ($23) — full-flavored apple, white peach and almond — and the 2018 Elena Walch Vigna Castel Ringberg ($27). The latter is for those who don’t think they like Pinot Grigio.