There are two parallel culinary worlds in Palermo: traditional home cooking and street food. Palermitans are very proud of their traditional food, and I’d advise a stop at Trattoria da Nonna Dora for pasta con le sarde, which celebrates local ingredients sardines, pine nuts, raisins and wild fennel. A generous portion costs €6.

After fresh fish? Try Osteria Mercede for its tonno rosso (red tuna, €18), and homely I sapori del Mare for its killer pasta porticello (pasta with king prawns, €16). Cheese lovers should not miss the ragusano all’argentiera (caciocavallo cheese pan-fried with oil, garlic and vinegar, €10) at La Buatta on Via Vittorio Emanuele.