The crafts of glassmaking, bookbinding, and gondola-building have changed little over the centuries in this city, which is celebrating its 1,600th anniversary this year. Artisans ply their skills according to precise guild specifications that predate the Italian Renaissance. “There are rules that govern color combinations and proportions,” says Stefano Coluccio, explaining why he does not accept special commissions for his mirrors. 

Yet for all the adherence to tradition, the 1,000 or so artisans in Venice also find ways to innovate within the parameters of their craft. For example, while gondolas have been in existence since the 11th century, their design has evolved in subtle yet significant ways. On a recent visit, shipwright Matteo Tamassia, whose gondolas can take a month or more to construct, discussed an improvement to the gunwale with a fellow boat-maker who dropped by.